Friday, September 18, 2009

Heirloom Recipes At The Heart of A Family Restaurant

Myrtle Beach is lucky the Toniolo family picked our area for the second location of their Italian restaurant called Stefano’s Cucina Rustica. They’ve owned the first location of the same name in Florence for 19 years.

The owners are Steve and Anna Toniolo, and their 23-year-old son, Steve, is the general manager of the new eatery, which is in Carolina Forest. Steve is a recent college grad with a business degree.

Stefano’s has a warm décor rich with colors of a Tuscan sunset: umber, sienna, misty green. Low metal ceiling fans and lights have a terra cotta hue, and arches that peek into the kitchen lend an old-world air. Classic Italian music plays, and it was the first time I heard “Volare” in Italian.

The vintage theme fits with the heirloom family recipes the Toniolos use, like their marinara and meat sauce that’s rich and thick and sweetly peppery from fresh herbs and spices.

Meals start with a fresh and warm mini bread loaf. The server brings a white dish with a resting place for a spoon containing freshly minced garlic and herbs. At the table the server pours olive oil into the dish and mixes in the spoonful of flavorings to create fresh dipping oil.

From 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. there is a special lunch menu. For $7 diners have a choice of Lasagna, Chicken Tortellini, Chicken Parmesan, Spaghetti, Fettucine Alfredo, Cheese Ravioli or Baked Rigatoni, and they come with a choice of soup or salad, plus that wonderful bread (which is baked fresh daily at Benjamin’s Bakery in Surfside Beach). There are also lunch specials, and the day I visited it was Stuffed Peppers.

But you don’t have to stick to the lunch menu at midday, because the regular menu is available for lunch or dinner. There are Paninis like Da Wise Guy with salami, capicola and mozzarella, or The Leaning Tower of Pizza with pepperoni, sausage, tomatoes and mozzarella. Classic Hot Subs are also listed, like a Philly Cheesesteak and a Parmigiana Sub with meatballs, sausage, eggplant and chicken.

Some folks were enjoying the pizzas, which can come with gourmet toppings like meatballs, portabello mushrooms, roasted red peppers and plum tomatoes. There are also small and large Stromboli, and Stuffed Pizzas like Chicken and Broccoli, the Venice Veggie and a Bacon Double Cheeseburger.

Stefano’s has wings (mild, medium, hot, extreme or teriyaki) and salads including Antipasto, Buffalo Chicken, Buffalo Shrimp, Fried Tortellini and Fried Calamari.

Appetizers are lavish, such as Broccoli Cheddar Puffs, Fried Calimari, Provolone Fritta (fried provolone with marinara) and Caprese (fresh mozzarella and tomato slices drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and garnished with fresh basil). I tried the wonderful Toasted Crab Dip Ravioli, where ravioli are stuffed with a savory crab dip, fried ‘til crispy and served with Alfredo dipping sauce.

Many of the entrees are what you’d expect, and they come in enormous portions. There are Lasagna Al Forno, Ravioli Di Quattro Formaggi (four cheeses), Manicotti, Parmigiana Alla Sorrentina with chicken, eggplant or veal, and Chicken or Veal Marsala.

I tried the Canneloni, which are pasta sheets stuffed and rolled with ground beef, pork, veal, spinach and four cheeses, and then baked and served with toppings of mozzarella and meat sauce. It was hearty and flavorful, and I could eat only a third of it. My husband enjoyed the rest for his dinner.

You can also order Personalized Pasta, where you have a choice of pastas, a choice of sauces and you select from a variety of toppings.

A few chicken entrees include Pollo Fumigata, or Smothered Chicken; Pollo Tuscana (lemony); and Rigatoni Raggiata, which means Angry Rigatoni and is a hearty dish with pasta, chicken, Italian sausage, banana peppers and Alfresco Sauce. On the beef list are Bistecca Pizzaiola (a smothered ribeye), and Bistecca Toscana (marinated ribeye). There is a Fish of the Day, plus Gamberi Marinara (gamberi are shrimp), Lobster Ravioli and Tesoro Di Mare (shrimp and scallops on fettucine with Alfredo sauce).

For dessert there are a couple of cheesecakes, tiramisu and cannoli.

The service is warm, friendly and efficient. I was even greeted by servers tending to other tables, and appreciated that my leftovers were boxed up for me at the table. This is a great date spot or family restaurant, and I’m guessing Carolina Forest residents will be grateful to have a spot such as this to dine at where they don’t have to get out in major traffic.

Stefano’s Cucina Rustica is at 2005 Oak Heart Road, in the shopping center on the Piggly Wiggly side of Carolina Forest Boulevard. The number is 903-7238, and they’re open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Mondays through Fridays, until 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays and from noon to 9 p.m. Sundays.

Some Favourite Restaurants in Provence

There are, quite literally, thousands of restaurants in Provence!

Over the past couple of decades we’ve tried to sample as many as humanly possible – but we are beginning to realise that we’ve hardly scraped the surface!

Here are some brief notes on just a selection of the restaurants we have eaten in (and enjoyed!) over the last few years.

Most of them are in the Vaucluse and Bouches-du-Rhone regions of Provence (our favorite stamping grounds), with just the occasional foray into the Var and the Alpes Maritimes.

Some (not all) of the restaurants have their own websites. These include photos, sample menus, wine lists, etc. One or two even have virtual tours and online reservation facilities.

Please be advised these are not casual, informal places. While gentlemen may not be expected to wear a jacket and tie (except at the Louis XV in Monaco) you may be looked at somewhat askance if you turn up in jeans and trainers. Aim for a smart casual look and you should be OK. And it’s always a good idea to telephone ahead to reserve a table.

The arrangement is alphabetical by location.


AIX-EN-PROVENCE:

Le Clos de la Violette

Avenue de la Violette

13090 Aix-en-Provence

Bouches-du-Rhone

Tel: 04 42 23 30 71

URL: http://www.closdelaviolette.fr

One of the best (and best-loved) restaurants in Provence, Le Clos has one Michelin star and serves exquisite cuisine prepared with skill and panache by the proprietor, Jean-Marc Banzo. Set in a quiet, residential corner of Aix, with an elegant terrace for summer dining, the food, wine and service are beyond reproach.


AVIGNON:

Brunel

Rue de la Balance

84000 Avignon

Vaucluse

Tel: 04 90 85 24 83

In his air-conditioned, contemporary restaurant in an arcade of shops not far from the palais des Papes, self-taught local chef Robert Brunel serves up a light, modern cuisine based around fresh local produce. Fish and vegetables predominate. Good value menus for both lunch and dinner.


Christian Etienne

Rue de Mons

84000 Avignon

Vaucluse

Tel: 04 90 86 16 50

URL: http://www.christian-etienne.fr/

Beautifully sited alongside the palais des Papes, this elegant restaurant has one Michelin star and an enviable local reputation. The a la carte menu and several set-price options offer a wide choice of specialities, including lobster, truffles and the famous "all-tomato" menu in summer. Charming and professional service. Great food. Great local wines. Highly recommended.


Hiély-Lucullus

Rue de la Republique

84000 Avignon

Vaucluse

Tel: 04 90 86 17 07

A well-loved Avignon institution that has been serving businessmen and local families for over 60 years (although now under new management and with a new chef). It's rather inconguously sited above a shop on Avignon's main street, but don't let that put you off. Prices are extremely reasonable, and the food is delicious and plentiful. A good place for Sunday lunch.


LES-BAUX-DE PROVENCE:

L'Oustau de Baumanière

Val d'Enfer

13520 Les-Baux-de-Provence

Bouches-du-Rhone

Tel: 04 90 54 33 07

URL: http://www.oustaudebaumaniere.com

One of the jewels in the Provençal gastronomic crown, this is a truly world-class restaurant and hotel - with prices to match! It has two Michelin stars and an international clientele, and lunching or dining here, preferably on the beautiful terrace with the dramatic contours of Les Baux looming overhead, is an unforgettable, once-in-a-lifetime (if rather extravagant) experience.


La Cabro d'Or

Val d'Enfer

13520 Les-Baux-de-Provence

Bouches-du-Rhone

Tel: 04 90 54 33 21

URL: http://www.lacabrodor.com/



This charming hotel/restaurant is the younger and (slightly) cheaper sibling of the renowned L'Oustau de Baumaniere (see above), just along the road. The beautiful setting, superb food and attentive service all come highly recommended.


BONNIEUX:

Bastide de Capelongue

Lieu dit Croupatiere

84480 Bonnieux

Vaucluse

Tel: 04 90 75 89 78

URL: http://www.capelongue.com

After having made a name and enviable reputation for himself at the Moulin de Lourmarin, handsome super-chef Edouard Loubet has now moved a few kilometres along the road to this sumptuous hotel/restaurant in Bonnieux. Loubet's cooking is as innovative and inventive as ever - and his two Michelin stars have swiftly followed him! Early reports are ecstatic.


CASSIS:

Nino

Quai de Barthélemy

13260 Cassis

Bouches-du-Rhone

Tel: 04 42 01 74 32

URL: http://www.nino-cassis.com

There are plenty of fish and seafood restaurants along the colorful, bustling harbor of this delightful little town. This one is a little more sophisticated and up-market than most, with its bright Italianate decor, friendly staff, lovely food and superb local wines, all presided over by the charming, eagle-eyed, unflappable Bruno. You will find most of the classic fish and seafood dishes of Provence here: bouillabaisse, bourride, sea bass, sea bream, red mullet, gambas, etc. Definitely one of our personal favourites. Highly recommended. (Stop press: three superb state-of-the-art rooms with breathtaking views of the harbor and the sea cliffs beyond have just been added. Check out the web site for photos and details.)


CAVAILLON:

Prévot

Avenue de Verdun

84300 Cavaillon

Vaucluse

Tel: 04 90 71 32 43

In his sumptuous restaurant in a rather anonymous town, Jean-Jacques Prévot serves up a range of elegant, inventive dishes. The town is famous for its melons, and these feature widely (and imaginatively) on the menu.


EYGALIERES:

Le Bistrot d'Eygalières

Rue de la Republique

13810 Eygalières

Tel: 04 90 90 60 34

URL: http://www.chezbru.com/

A bit of a misnomer, this is hardly a bistro, but a decidedly upmarket restaurant serving superb food. Prices are quite reasonable for the range and quality of the food on offer, and the wine list is a veritable treasure-trove of local wines. (Stop Press: This restaurant has just been awarded its second Michelin star!)


L'ISLE SUR LA SORGUE:

Le Jardin du Quai

91 avenue Julien Guige

84800 L'Isle sur la Sorgue

Vaucluse

Tel: 04 90 20 14 98

http://www.danielhebet.com

Young super-chef Daniel Hebet - who made such a name for himself at the luxurious Hotel de la Mirande in Avignon some years ago - has now set up shop in this delightful, antique-laden town. This is a much simpler, more informal place, but with the occasional haute cuisine flourish. Lovely, imaginative, market-fresh dishes with little (if any) choice. Four courses for about 40 euros. Don't miss it!